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Rock Climbing Sanctuary

                                                                                                                                  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                        

                                    This area, located on Little Hill in New Gloucester, Maine, provides good top roping or good practice leading.  There is a ledge that creates a span of about 100 ft. of consecutive ice climbs (maybe 6 or more all together), all of which are one pitch.  On the best day we were
there it was loaded with ice.  But, it is very unpredictable.  

During the ice storm, there was next to no ice (go figure).  It is south facing and gets toasty early in the day, so it is important to go real early and only on
real cold days.   Be prepared to hike into nothing, sometimes it just isn't in. But when it is it is really, really a lot of fun.  It's like a buffet of great beginner ice climbs.

 

DIRECTIONS:  Take the Maine Turnpike to Exit 11.  Take a right and travel up to the left through town (Gray). Pass Mc Donald's on your right, go straight and follow Route 100
N about 7 miles, then take a left on to Chandler Mill Rd.  Follow the road and bear right, cross the turnpike.  Take the first left after the bridge
over the turnpike, Swamp Rd.  Go to the end.  Park on the left, walk down the
snowmobile trail a short way, and turn right on to the foot trail in to the  woods. Follow the foot trail to the ledge.

 

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New Gloucester, Maine - Ice Climbing

 

 

Pictures Above - Glenn Vaillancourt in Action

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